I decided to spend Christmas and New Years in site because I had recently gotten back from Koudougou and wanted to spend time with my village. A lot of people in Nedogo questioned my staying but I explained that my friends and family in Burkina are here in Nedogo and that this is where my home is. Festivities began Christmas Eve when I went to mass with the family I’ve grown close to. We showed up shortly before mass began at 9pm to a beautifully decorated church. I was very impressed with the amount of people who came out to mass that night (people take their religion seriously here) and by all the work they did to decorate the church for Christmas. It was a beautiful mass with dancing and singing that lasted until ~1130pm. After I returned home, I was brushing my teeth in my courtyard before bed when all of a sudden I heard a loud noise in the distance. I looked up and it was a firework! I couldn’t quite believe it. It was the most basic firework, but another 5-6 went off. It was a great surprise and made me forget I was in Burkina for a moment.
The next morning I woke up to a phone call from Kathleen (my friend who left the week before), which was a great start to an even better day. After that, my next door neighbor brought me riz-sauce with meat. During a fete here, families make lots of food then bring some to all the neighbors. I brought bread and drinks both to that family and the family I’ve grown close to since I don’t have large pots for cooking. When I was at my host family’s (I call them this because they’re the family I’ve grown close to here, even though they aren’t technically my host family and I don’t live with them) house that morning they gifted me a live pintard! It was incredibly generous of them and they thought it was funny that I didn’t know how to kill and grill it so my homologue had his oldest daughter do it for me. After lots of eating and greeting people that morning we all changed into our Christmas best (all the kids had brand new outfits which were adorable) and went to the Christmas day mass. It was absolutely packed so we stayed outside which was nice because it wasn’t too hot or
crowded like the inside. It lasted a typical 2ish hours. We then went back for even more food and drinks. I spent the entire day with my family. We ate, drank, and enjoyed each other’s company. I was able to talk to my friends and family from the states too which made the day even better!
New Year’s Eve wasn’t much of a fete but that’s because I knew I had to wake up early the next day to leave for a safari. My friend Jamie who was coming on the safari came down to Nedogo on the 30th. My host family insisted that we eat dinner with them that night and they were incredibly generous, as usual. They used their nicest plates and glasses and served us an entire plate of meat along with spaghetti. Usually we just eat to, or rice if it’s a special occasion. They also insisted on going out to buy us drinks which was completely unnecessary. Everything was delicious, and more than appreciated, and we ate then played Uno with a bunch of kids who came to stare at Jamie. The next day, I showed him around Nedogo then we went to the head chief of village’s house with my homologue so that I could give a report of what we did in Koudougou and my planned project. After that, my homologue (the dad of my host family) took me and Jamie out for a drink and meat. He then gifted me a live pintard and a chicken on behalf of the school. It was, once again, way too nice of them. I didn’t have the appropriate knives and kitchenware to kill and grill them so we brought them to a butcher to prepare. That night we went out for drinks with my tailor friend and his wife and his older brother. We had a couple drinks and ate lots of meat. It was a great time but had to end early because of the long day of travel we had
ahead of us.
Overall, the fetes were great and I’m very glad I decided to stay in Nedogo to celebrate. People here are more than generous and they definitely make me feel wanted in the community. I think I got really lucky with my village and I’m starting to think I can make it the full 2 years.
Wedding
One of my friend’s in village is a tailor and he invited me to his wedding the Saturday after Christmas. The wedding was to take place in a neighboring village called Taonsgho. I had never been there before so I met his younger brother at the tailor shop at 8:30 am so I could follow him to the village. We first stopped at the groom’s (my friend) house for food (riz-gras) and drinks and I was able to say hello to a bunch of his family and friends. After about an hour and half, we biked over to the church for the service. It was a 2+ hour service but was filled with lots of singing and drumming. It was very cool to see a Burkinabe wedding. The bride and groom walked down the aisle then sat next to each other at the front facing the altar. There were 11
pastors there (not sure why so many) but it seemed to be a typical service. They each said I do and placed a ring on the other’s ring finger. The dad of the bride and groom signed the marriage license to make it official. The only unusual thing I noticed was that they kneeled down and all the pastor’s placed a hand on their heads and prayed out loud for the new couple. It went on for a couple minutes and was very powerful. At the end, everyone filed down the aisle and shook the hands of the newly married couple.
After the service came the eating. Every event here has lots of food and drinks involved. There seemed to be over 200 people there and there was enough food for all. I sat at the head table with the 11 priests and the newly married couple. We were served salad, riz-sauce, spaghetti, to, meat, mini cake-like treats, and popcorn. After everyone ate, people headed back to the groom’s house for more singing and dancing through the night. The party went until after midnight but I left around 5 pm because I didn’t bring a light (I was not expecting it to last 15+ hours) and didn’t exactly know the route back to Nedogo. There were lots of drinks, a speaker system, and even a modern drum set. I had a great time, made lots of new friends, and was even invited to another wedding within the same family the following weekend. Sadly, I couldn’t attend that because 4 friends and I had a safari planned. I hope I get to attend more cultural events because I definitely enjoyed it and made me feel like a member of the community.
Safari
On New Year’s Day four friends and I traveled to Pama in the Southeast for a Safari on the 2nd. The journey began around 7:00 when Jamie and I woke up and biked from Nedogo to Zorgho. We decided to take a new back route which ended up cutting ~20 minutes off the bike ride which was great. When we got to Zorgho, we went to the bank and then took a bush-taxi over to Koupela. We arrived in Koupela around 915 and met Chloe at the STAF gare (a bus company here in Burkina). We had just missed Zazie and Ryan on their bus (they were coming from Ouaga and got on the first STAF bus from there) and the next STAF bus was not scheduled to come until 15h. For whatever reason, the noon bus was not going to come. We decided that we should just take a bush-taxi to Fada, instead of waiting until 15, so we could get to Pama before dark. We hopped on the first available bush-taxi and arrived in Fada 2-3 hours later. As we were getting closer and closer to Pama we didn’t really have a plan other than to try and find a bush-taxi that was going south towards Benin. We got incredibly lucky, and the guy
sitting next to us on the bush-taxi told us that our bush-taxi was going to Pama! We didn’t quite believe him but when we asked the driver, he said yes and that we could just add money and continue on with them to Pama. Thus, we continued on down to Pama and arrived after another 2-3 hours. When we got off the bush-taxi we immediately saw Ryan and Zazie who had just arrived as we were pulling up. The timing could not have been more perfect.
We then walked to Pierre’s house, where we were staying. He is a friend of a 3rd year volunteer and he often hosts people. We got food and drinks and then just hung out until that evening. When we met Pierre that night (he was coming from Fada) he served us salad and wine which was absolutely delicious. We watched Titanic in French, showered, and went to sleep because we were leaving for the safari at 5am the next day. The next morning we all bundled up (yes, it was FREEZING) because we knew we would be sitting on benches on the back of an open-bed truck. We drove to the park and on the way in saw a herd of elephants, lion prints (must have just missed them), and a couple large animals that are similar to antelopes but much much bigger. We then arrived at the actual park, switched cars, then set off to see more animals. We were super lucky and saw another 3 or 4 herds of elephants, monkeys, hippopotamus, crocodiles, deer, warthogs, and antelope. It was really fun and a great time to do it because it never got too hot out. There was a man standing at the back of the truck (behind our benches) who has eyes like a hawk. He spotted all the animals for us, it was pretty incredible.
We headed back around 1 pm, got some lunch, then napped until dinner and drinks that night. We left early the next morning to head back to site. Chloe, Jamie, and I decided to stop in Koupela for the night to relax and hang out before heading to site for the beginning of the 2nd trimester. We enjoyed delicious meat, salad, drinks, and good company but it definitely feels good to be back in site.
I’ll post pictures of Christmas, the wedding, and the safari when I go to Ouaga at the end of January. I was able to send the simple blog to my sisters and have them post these for you all.
As always, I miss you all and hope all is well! Sending my love from Nedogo!